Thursday 2 July 2015

Maiori & Salerno (Italy) June 2015

Hotel - La Dolce Vita, Maiori

We had been invited to my cousin Toni and Rosaria's 25th Wedding Anniversary party which originally had been planned for Tuesday 23rd June, but due to planning issues and his son not being around on that day, the party was moved to the Thursday.  Unfortunately, this change happened after we had booked our flights to Italy, returning home on the morning of the party.




So we decided to have a little tour of the Salerno/Amalfi coast and make the most of a holiday, whilst also seeing family.  Best of both worlds.

About 15 years earlier, I had gone on a little bike ride with a friend from Salerno to Amalfi along the infamous coastline, and I always remember a few stops we made en route.  One of these was a little town called Maiori.  With very little English tourists, it is a real Italian holiday destination. I suggested this location to Clare and she worked her magic and found us a great little self-catering hotel, La Dolce Vita.

Our initial plan was to catch a bus from the airport to Sorrento, have lunch there and an ice cream at Davide's, then jump on a bus to Amalfi and possibly grab another Ice Cream (when in Italy!) and then get another bus to Salerno dropping off in Maiori.  Due to us arriving on a Saturday morning with 5 other flights this idea was quickly altered.  We opted for a train to Salerno, a little light lunch (pizza) and then a bus to our hotel.

Maiori is simply stunning, there is no way I could describe the place and do it justice. Quaint little seaside town, very Italian, with a long market street running through the middle.  Just beautiful.  Our hotel was a little ten minute hike out of Maiori centre along the Amalfi Coastline, when we arrived the cleaner had not been to our room, and didn't realise that we were arriving today.  Whilst she was startled to begin with, our laid back attitude seemed to calm her down.  We would be happy to leave our bags in the room and have a little wonder around the town to give her time to sort.

La Dolce Vita is a small Ikea based hotel with studio apartments and full self catering facilities.  The bed and kitchen are both hidden away during the day in cupboards, making the room look larger.  On the top floor of the hotel was a sun deck including a hot tub Jacuzzi looking out into it's own private bay.  Again, simply stunning views.





We opted for takeway pizza on our first night as it had been a long day (up at 3am), but takeaway pizza is far different from the pizzas we get at home, these actually taste delicious and not greasy.  Clare stated whilst eating our meatball and spicy Parma ham pizza that this was "the best pizza I have ever had, ever!" 

In the morning we packed away our bed, had a quick bite to eat and set off towards the neighbouring town of Minori.  Just a mile away from the town centre of Maiori, the walk took us on along the coast again for a few minutes.  Minori is a smaller town and even less commercial than it's neighbour.  It didn't take us too long to cover most of what the town had to offer so we headed for a little coffee break at one of the restaurants.  Bar 52 in Minori is a small family run establishment which made us feel welcome right away.  Again, it was Italian for Italians, and looking at the menu I told the owner that we would be back.
Clare spotted her dream house (apartment block) in Minori and is convinced that when we win the lottery that this will be her first purchase.  After a nice relax on the shore front we walked back to Maiori for Ice Cream at Geljada's which for me, is probably the nicest Ice Cream I have ever had!

For our last evening, we opted for a meal at Mario and Maria's restaurant after the co-owner told me that his wife is the best cook in Maiori.  Not having tasted all the cuisines in this little town I cannot confirm his statement, but it would take an outstanding effort to beat what we had.  Clare's Salmon Farfalle was divine and I had the homemade Lasagna, which was just how mamma makes.

After a few too many local wines we decided that we should return back to the Dolce Vita ready for the next stop on our holiday, home.

Hotel - Albergo Fiorenzi, Salerno

We arrived at Salerno Station earlier than expected, so I suggested to Clare instead of catching a bus to our next hotel, we should walk the Lungo Mare.  This is a long pedestrianised pathway that stretches the full length of Salerno into Marcetello (where our hotel is based).  






Salerno is a large commercial city, similar to Manchester with multiple shops, businesses and restaurants which also has an increased population.  Compared to our secluded, quaint retreat, Salerno is a completely different world. 



 Most of the family from England had arrived in Salerno on the Monday as well as my cousins from Australia ready for the anniversary party.  With it being Simon's (Australia Cuz) birthday, my uncle had invited us all to a pizzeria in the home village for a celebration, and what a celebration it was.  Mozzerella's, more pizzas than you could imagine, parma ham, proscuttio, fresh tomato, all the food was exquisite and I had explained to Clare that the "most amazing" pizza from the night before was going to have some serious competition.  Marco's confirmed that for me, amazing food.  It was great to see family from Italy, Australia and England all in one place for a celebration, and a great time was had by everyone.   For more on this restaurant, and why it is dear to my heart, please read the blog post from my 40 before 40 here: Buy Clare a Pizza from Degli Dei

In the morning we met up with my ma 'n' pa, Auntie Hiniz and Uncle Dave and T'lind and Bazza ready for a little trip to Minori and Maiori.  We had talked so highly of our two night stay, that we had convinced them that this should be a place they see. We were soon back on the bus along the Amalfi Coast line to the smallest town first.  When we arrived in Minori, a little stop off for something to eat and drinking before exploring was suggested, and Clare had remembered our promise to Bar 52.  When we approached the restaurant, the owner recognised me straightaway.  I told her we would be back, but I didn't think she expected us bringing 6 more people with us.  On our first visit, the bruchetta's had been recommended so this was our first choice, however, as we were in Italy we also ordered a platter of meats, cheeses, tomato and olives (even though these were not on the menu), the owner told us that she would sort something out, and she certainly did.  Fresh basil, tomatoes and olives from her garden, meat and cheese from local butchers and cheese shops we had a platter fit for kings and queens.  This was followed with the home made Limoncello and lemon granite.  Bar 52 was so accommodating and friendly to boot.  I do know that T'lind and Bazza came back here a few days after we had left, so it definitely had an impact.


As we were not able to attend Toni and Rosaria's anniversary party, we had been invited to visit on the Tuesday night.  Toni makes the most amazing fragoline, a liquor based frozen strawberry delight and he had promised me the night earlier that he would make some.  It was fantastic!  Toni is really busy working at the moment and based on the current employment levels in Italy, we are happy that he is so busy.  Leaving him to his work, Clare and I accompanied Rosaria to pick up their daughter from work.  Angela had sent me some pictures from her work via Facebook, she had started working for a Yoghurteria in Salerno with a difference.  Frozen yoghurt to which you choose your own toppings, sauces and delights.  Honey, Oreo Cookies, Cereals, biscuits, cakes, sponges, sweets, you name it, you can put it on top.  Italian food is amazing, and their desserts are as fantastic, Yoself Yoguteria rivals the most amazing Italian Ice Cream, this was delicious.

After returning to Toni's, we grabbed a takeaway pizza from Marco's and headed to my cousin Sabrina's house.  Sabrina had prepared a little bite to eat for us as well, without us knowing, so the night continued with chat, wine, food and perfect company. Sabi will always hold a special place in my heart as we always spent a lot of time together on my visits with Nanna.  Her husband Giovanni is superb, such a great guy and full of joy.  Clare absolutely loved spending time with them, even though she cannot speak a word of Italian.





Our last full day in Italy, we walked to the borgo that my ma 'n' pa were staying at for a chill out.  It had been a busy couple of days and we needed a rest.  We decided collectively that a final meal in Marco's (Degli Dei) was called for, but it would just be the Minori 8.  As my great uncles all live in close proximity to the restaurant, we decided to visit Zio Vincenzo first.  Clare had never been to Vincenzo's but his house was always the first place we visited for a meal when I came out with Nanna.  Picking apricots from trees, drinking homemade wine and all done in such amazing surroundings with such great company, this was the life.

Again, another awesome meal in Marco's to which Clare and I opted for a Lasagna Pizza, after we had eaten the largest and most beatuiful buffalo mozzarella ball ever.  I cannot praise the food enough here, and believe me, the mozzarella you buy from Tesco or Asda is nothing like true buffallo mozzarella.

Our time was over, home was calling and we left our family to enjoy the rest of their holiday.  Passing on our love to Toni and Rosaria celebrating their 25th Wedding Anniversary and asking Sabi & Giovani to one day come to us in England, we hopped on the train back to Naples.

That's Amore!